A focus on Rick Owens spring 2015 "FAUN" mens collection and artist Benoit Barnay

Following the Porterville designer's glam grunge provocating, sometimes disturbing DNA, and predeccessing the spectacular SPHINX and CYCLOPS collections, spring 2015 Faun was an ode to the the very important 1912 Nijinsky’s "The Afternoon of a Faun" theatre play of Ballets Russes.

The Faun with the nymph's scarf

Afternoon of a Faun was regarded as a groundbreaking art performance for it's erotic, animal and sensual aspect, going against the conventions of classical dance norms with slow, destructured, "cubist" movements, and an "obscene" interpretation of the Faun by the author, dividing the public opininon and introducing a new era during modernist art. Rick Owens was inspired by the quite unusual and shocking climax ending scene with Nijinsky himself as the main character, masturbating on the scarf left by a nymph. It is this provocative idea of "breaking the norms" that he will always try to push forward each collection.

 Fall 2015 SPHINX, pieces showing off the crotch area were presented without underwear on models

Spring 2016 CYCLOPS, another person was attached upside down to the model in different positions 

The looks presented are transmiting well the cold and fanciful aspect of this drama, by the use of desaturated and neutral tones mainly inspired by the original costumes and decors made back then by Leon Bakst, a faithful collaborator of Nijinsky, also painted on model's bodies. Many pieces of the show were featuring extra pieces of light fabric, floating behind the walk of the models, evoking the erotism of the fetish scarf at the end of Nijinsky's balais. Most of the garments in themselves were reduced to their simplest shapes, paired with the well known Springblade boots. Hair styles were done by Luigi Morenu, in a messy and disorganized way, a gesture going against the innocent nature of a Faun.

Spring 2015 runway 

Since 2014, the American designer is particularly paying attention to the importance of team work, and is introducing to his world not only designers but various people, as shown in fall 2014 MOODY, where a part of the casting was composed of the label's commercial team.

For spring 2015, the focus is on one person : Benoit Barnay. A skater, independant artist and above all, a former Rick Owens model. Taken under the wing of Michèle Lamy, Owens's wife and business partner, during hard times of his life, he would sharpen his very particular artistic style, obscure, graphic, and quite mystic, reminding of the infamous J-M Basquiat's dark era, and blending in perfectly with Owen's world. It also remembers me Belkis Ayon's work, in a way. Under the name of "EPHEMERISM", he is now part of the LAMYLAND collective, and his designs will also be featured in a capsule collection for fall 2022 (DRKSHDW).

Benoit Barnay wearing Faun pants

"Messiah" embroidered top

Belkis Ayon, Untitled

A portait of the couple drawn by Benoit Barnay, found by accident by Rick Owens was the starting point of the collection, and two graphics were choosed to be embroidered on garnments, entitled "Messiah" and "Toothface". Those weren't about "fashion" as Rick Owens stated, but about the intimacy and authenticity of a special relation that was important for the label at that time. Benoit Barnay also opened and closed the runway, and has run for several collections including fall 2012 MOUNTAIN and fall 2022 STROBE. 

Spring 2015 FAUN lookbook cover

The original drawing used to create one of the designs

To illustrate this, we are presenting this very special piece featuring the now-iconic "Messiah" graphic, designed by Benoit Barnay, and hand embroidered. Various sources, including the Owens couple themselves, are stating that this drawing represents a portrait of Rick Owens and Michele Lamy, but actually, it is the artist himself holding a glass. The jacket presents the classical "Flight" bomber cut, with elongated slim arms stacking up and an extended body, often seen on Rick Owens himself. Made of a 52% cotton and 48% nylon blend, lightweight and structured. Features a full length front zipper closure, arm pocket detail, open pockets each side, and ribbed hems. The tone on tone graphic gives it an intersting texture while remaining discreet.

Rick Owens in the parisian metro, wearing a flight bomber jacket paired with Sphinx runners

 

 

 

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Written by Mysteriumuseum and QuorthonDu75